It's really annoying. I put in new brake pads, but I didn't change the sensors and I'm not going to because they are stupid expensive for a feature thats pretty unneeded. Is there any way to keep this light off for good? It comes on every time I turn on the car and I have to hit the arrow up to turn it to something else.
Also, are those sensors the possible reason for the annoying chirp I hear while driving? It sounds like its coming from the wheel in the front but the rotors are new, brake pads are new and everything is in sound shape yet it makes the most annoying chirp ever. Could this be because the car thinks it needs new brake pads so its telling me to change by chirp and by stupid light on the dash?How do you get the change brake pads light to go away on a 1999 Cadillac Seville STS?put a piece of black electrical tape over the light or buy the sensors. The chirp could be a number of things.
Ghetto fag? lmao. You're the idiot complaining about the light and you know you need the sensors replaced...which will fix the light..but of course you want a way around it....No not ghetto but u sound like a fag!How do you get the change brake pads light to go away on a 1999 Cadillac Seville STS?yes it all could be because of bad sensor you might want to find out which fuse controls the light and maybe pull the light good luckHow do you get the change brake pads light to go away on a 1999 Cadillac Seville STS?pull the fuse, or just cut the wire, ya dont need it anyways, you can pretty much tell when u need new brake padsHow do you get the change brake pads light to go away on a 1999 Cadillac Seville STS?it also could be a wheel bearing too.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Does anyone know how the front end in a bmw works or what?
I have a shake in my 93-318i i have had the car aligned, balanced, rotated all wheels are fine, the lower control arm bushings were changed. could something be wrong with my brakes aside from my new rotors they are also fine? driveshaft bent? this problem has got me goin off the deep end, i need help!! Do lower control arm bushings have to be put in a certain way, could they have snapped instantly if put in wrong? please call me if your an experienced tech, luke 603-642-8124Does anyone know how the front end in a bmw works or what?Yeah - loose ball joints, tie rods, worn rack %26amp; pinion steering gears. The wheels probably feel loose when you grab the front wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and shake it back and forth. But, if you jack the car up and grab it at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and you can shake it, I think it's probably front wheel bearings. The only other thing I can think of is toe-in adjustment or I don't know if your may have a steering damper.Does anyone know how the front end in a bmw works or what?Did you check tie rod ends or ball joints?Does anyone know how the front end in a bmw works or what?Upper control arms are the more likely culprit, they take more load than the lowers under typical driving and braking loads. Change the whole arm, the ball joint on the other end is not serviceable.
How do you bleed the brakes in a 1977 Motorhome / RV?
I have a 1977 GMC MIDAS motor-home, and I am having a hard time with the brakes. It has 4 disc brakes. I changed the front pads, and calipers on both sides. I tried bleeding the lines but the pedal is still really soft. I have to push the pedal all the way down until I feel brakes, and that's with new pads and calipers. The rotors do not looked warped. I read something about turning the wheel to both locks to engage the pump or something? I tried everything, I think it may have a brake power boost system. I did add brake fluid to the master cylinder because it went down after the bleeding process, which I hope was what I was supposed to add. Anyone have any ideas, or somewhere that the proper bleeding process is described for this vehicle?How do you bleed the brakes in a 1977 Motorhome / RV?it still has air in the system
get a friend help you out
have him pump the break five times or more and tell him not to release and let his food press down on the break.
loosen the bleed valve on the caliper a quarter turn and tighten it once the fluids come out
repeat the process like three times or until no more bubbles come out of the bleed valve. do it in all four wheels,,
,*****watch out for the fluid level on the reservoir if it runs out while your still bleeding the system you're gonna have to start all over again*****
hope it helps
good luck
get a friend help you out
have him pump the break five times or more and tell him not to release and let his food press down on the break.
loosen the bleed valve on the caliper a quarter turn and tighten it once the fluids come out
repeat the process like three times or until no more bubbles come out of the bleed valve. do it in all four wheels,,
,*****watch out for the fluid level on the reservoir if it runs out while your still bleeding the system you're gonna have to start all over again*****
hope it helps
good luck
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?Your fan has a temeparature sensor..which may be damaged. anyway just look for the cables that come out from the fan..and unplug it.My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?about the blower motor, maybe the relay is stuck, which would cause it to run all the time, until you find the problem, unhook the battery at night, and about the rotors, it sounds like the calipers arent releasing the pads away from the rotors, and burning the pads and warping the rotors.
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?Your fan has a temeparature sensor..which may be damaged. anyway just look for the cables that come out from the fan..and unplug it.My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?about the blower motor, maybe the relay is stuck, which would cause it to run all the time, until you find the problem, unhook the battery at night, and about the rotors, it sounds like the calipers arent releasing the pads away from the rotors, and burning the pads and warping the rotors.
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?Im not familiar with BMW's but with climate controlled vehicles,i do know that the blower is controlled by a blower control module and the blower gets its ground thru the module.
If the blower continues to run with the key off,the problem lies internally in the blower module and it needs to be replaced.
look into that and see if your vehicle has that setup
As far as the rotors,cheaper aftermarket ones will do that.
ALSO%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;if the lug nuts are improperly/overtorqued when put back on,this will definitely warp rotors within 5-7 thousand miles or less.
A torque wrench or special torque sticks are required to tighten them properly.
If just an impact wrench is used ,they can be easily overtorqued.connecting database textbox
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?Im not familiar with BMW's but with climate controlled vehicles,i do know that the blower is controlled by a blower control module and the blower gets its ground thru the module.
If the blower continues to run with the key off,the problem lies internally in the blower module and it needs to be replaced.
look into that and see if your vehicle has that setup
As far as the rotors,cheaper aftermarket ones will do that.
ALSO%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;if the lug nuts are improperly/overtorqued when put back on,this will definitely warp rotors within 5-7 thousand miles or less.
A torque wrench or special torque sticks are required to tighten them properly.
If just an impact wrench is used ,they can be easily overtorqued.
Ford fiesta mk3 n reg?
trying to change the front wheel bearing. got the brake disc and caliper off and am now stuck.cant get into bearing, seems to be a rotor thing in the way , how do u get this off, tried hitting it with hammer but no luck. any ideasFord fiesta mk3 n reg?I'd seriously consider getting a garage to do it because you sound like you don't have a clue and i wouldn't want the wheel to fall off and kill you or someone else.
To do it properly you need to undo the driveshaft nut, the bottom balljoint ect and completely remove the whole hub assembly to work on it at a bench.
To do it properly you need to undo the driveshaft nut, the bottom balljoint ect and completely remove the whole hub assembly to work on it at a bench.
What is wrong with my breaks?
I'll make this as short as I can.
I'm driving an 88 suzuki forsa turbo. Since buying my car I've always needed to push my break pedal just slightly past half way down to get any response from my breaks, the previous owner said this is how it has always been and he bought it brand new. One day while trying to break I had pushed the pedal clear to the floor and it was as though I had hardly touched the pedal at all, my tires didn't even lock up. I brought my car in and had the master cylinder replaced with a rebuilt one. A day or two after this happened my break pedal was doing the reverse and instead of going to the floor I was unable to push it down very far. The more I needed to drive the higher and higher it got and the less I could push the pedal. This started to happen after about 30 min of driving and just getting off the highway on my way to work. Not only was my pedal distance changing but it felt like at least one of the breaks had seized and I could smell the break pad rubbing. When I finally arrived at work and looked I saw that not only had my front passenger side caliper seize on me but my rotor was red hot...YAY!!! I brought it back and the mechanic determined that break lines were shot and not allowing the fluid to leave the calipers, so they were replaced. I also decided to change my front pads and calipers myself at this time. This all started about 2 weeks ago till this sunday which is when I changed the calipers and pads. I've just been making short drives with it this week to make sure things were fine and everything felt good. Today I took it to work and once again by the time I got to work I had to hardly touch my pedal to get any response from my breaks. The nice thing was it didn't feel like anything had seized and I couldn't smell burning pad. I took it back to the mechanic and he just adjusted the set pin in the master lower, which effectively did nothing.
So to recap: master cylinder replaced with a rebuilt one, brand new break lines, brand new calipers and brand new pads. I've also been checking almost every time i get into my car and the break fluid remains at the same level and there are no leaks that I can find. Also as far as I can tell my rear breaks have always worked just fine but now I'm thinking I should take everything apart and check it out.
Please help!!!!!!!!!!What is wrong with my breaks?you have air in your brakes lines you need to bleed you need to bleed the whole systemWhat is wrong with my breaks?I would say you have breaked your brakes. There is something you have not checked yet. Rip out everything associated with the breaked brakes and replace it all with new, not rebuilt, not made in China. Maybe the linkage is frickacted.What is wrong with my breaks?maybe its something weird, look what the guys had on his brake :
http://ihatejade.com/index.php?c=viral%26amp;m=index%26amp;id=6ab7fa37297a35abc37cf65c9aa350adWhat is wrong with my breaks?I think you are just not used to having brakes that actually work. If they are not overheating, and the pedal is not going past 1/2 way before the brakes start to grab, I would not be overly concerned. I think you might have had a bit of air in the lines and during your drive to work, the air worked itself up to the master cylinder and your brakes started grabbing normally.
Just keep an eye on your rims for excessive dust, keep your nose out for burning smells, and keep an eye on your fluid level.
Also, if you have drum brakes in the rear, you could try backing off the adjuster a bit, they might be over adjusted a bit and grabbing.What is wrong with my breaks?your mechanic must be an idiot ive worked on brakes alot but would have to see to see whats wrong. does it have antilock breaks those ive never worked on but theres not much else to do u changed it allWhat is wrong with my breaks?Your brakes usually feel a little spongy when calipers are replaced, because the pistons in the calipers retract more when new, after a short period, they will be seated and retract just a little to release the pressure on the pads, and the brake pedal doesn't have to travel as far to push the pads against the rotor.
Unless you notice other problems, it should be ok.What is wrong with my breaks?Breaks or Brakes or are you brakes brokes or did they break?
I'm driving an 88 suzuki forsa turbo. Since buying my car I've always needed to push my break pedal just slightly past half way down to get any response from my breaks, the previous owner said this is how it has always been and he bought it brand new. One day while trying to break I had pushed the pedal clear to the floor and it was as though I had hardly touched the pedal at all, my tires didn't even lock up. I brought my car in and had the master cylinder replaced with a rebuilt one. A day or two after this happened my break pedal was doing the reverse and instead of going to the floor I was unable to push it down very far. The more I needed to drive the higher and higher it got and the less I could push the pedal. This started to happen after about 30 min of driving and just getting off the highway on my way to work. Not only was my pedal distance changing but it felt like at least one of the breaks had seized and I could smell the break pad rubbing. When I finally arrived at work and looked I saw that not only had my front passenger side caliper seize on me but my rotor was red hot...YAY!!! I brought it back and the mechanic determined that break lines were shot and not allowing the fluid to leave the calipers, so they were replaced. I also decided to change my front pads and calipers myself at this time. This all started about 2 weeks ago till this sunday which is when I changed the calipers and pads. I've just been making short drives with it this week to make sure things were fine and everything felt good. Today I took it to work and once again by the time I got to work I had to hardly touch my pedal to get any response from my breaks. The nice thing was it didn't feel like anything had seized and I couldn't smell burning pad. I took it back to the mechanic and he just adjusted the set pin in the master lower, which effectively did nothing.
So to recap: master cylinder replaced with a rebuilt one, brand new break lines, brand new calipers and brand new pads. I've also been checking almost every time i get into my car and the break fluid remains at the same level and there are no leaks that I can find. Also as far as I can tell my rear breaks have always worked just fine but now I'm thinking I should take everything apart and check it out.
Please help!!!!!!!!!!What is wrong with my breaks?you have air in your brakes lines you need to bleed you need to bleed the whole systemWhat is wrong with my breaks?I would say you have breaked your brakes. There is something you have not checked yet. Rip out everything associated with the breaked brakes and replace it all with new, not rebuilt, not made in China. Maybe the linkage is frickacted.What is wrong with my breaks?maybe its something weird, look what the guys had on his brake :
http://ihatejade.com/index.php?c=viral%26amp;m=index%26amp;id=6ab7fa37297a35abc37cf65c9aa350adWhat is wrong with my breaks?I think you are just not used to having brakes that actually work. If they are not overheating, and the pedal is not going past 1/2 way before the brakes start to grab, I would not be overly concerned. I think you might have had a bit of air in the lines and during your drive to work, the air worked itself up to the master cylinder and your brakes started grabbing normally.
Just keep an eye on your rims for excessive dust, keep your nose out for burning smells, and keep an eye on your fluid level.
Also, if you have drum brakes in the rear, you could try backing off the adjuster a bit, they might be over adjusted a bit and grabbing.What is wrong with my breaks?your mechanic must be an idiot ive worked on brakes alot but would have to see to see whats wrong. does it have antilock breaks those ive never worked on but theres not much else to do u changed it allWhat is wrong with my breaks?Your brakes usually feel a little spongy when calipers are replaced, because the pistons in the calipers retract more when new, after a short period, they will be seated and retract just a little to release the pressure on the pads, and the brake pedal doesn't have to travel as far to push the pads against the rotor.
Unless you notice other problems, it should be ok.What is wrong with my breaks?Breaks or Brakes or are you brakes brokes or did they break?
Dragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?
I have a 1998 Ford Escort SE 4 door sedan. Recently I noticed that it made a metal-to-metal dragging or grinding type sound, like what you'd hear when you need new brakes. The sound occurred constantly, both when in motion and when applying the brakes. So I replaced both the front and rear brakes. This alleviated the sound when the car is in motion, but it still occurs when I apply the brakes. When I was changing the front brakes I noticed that they appeared to be in really good shape, hardly looking as though they needed replacing, however the rotor on the front right side had a groove worn into it as if the brakes weren't working properly or something. Could this be causing the sound I'm hearing? Can this be corrected by having the rotor resurfaced? How much does that generally cost? Could anything else be causing this kind of sound?
Also, since replacing the front brakes I've been hearing a clicking type of noise coming from the front of the car when the car is in motion, but it stops when the brakes are applied. Is this some kind of issue with the brakes I just installed?
Thanks for your help!Dragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?the metal to metal sound you hear may very well be a front wheel bearing which is a sealed bearing meaning there is no way for you to put grease in it when it rubs its bad and has to be replaced. Now on that same note if the bearing is bad and has been dragging it could also cause your cv shaft (constant velocity shaft) to heat up and go bad therefore causing a clicking sound if they are both coming from the same side of the car 9 times out of 10 this is what happened. Hope this helps you out.Dragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?The rotor should not be resurfaced. Just buy a new one. I don't think the rotor causes a grinding sound when you apply your brakes unless its metal to metal. I would check over the brakes to make sure you did everything correctly.Dragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?if you have rear drum brakes you might have a spring broke or came loose.Dragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?cv joint maybeDragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?Badly gouged rotors will cause a dragging sound, but they need to be reeallly bad before you'll hear them, also the car will not brake as well if it has rotors that have grooves in them
How often do you drive the car?, as if it sits for a while in between drives the rotors will get a surface coat of rust which will make a rubbing sound until you clean off the rotors by applying the brakes..
Resurfacing your rotors will run you between $15 and $20 each, I bought new rotors for my 97 Escort the other day for $20 each.
The clicking is likely your CV joint going out. Does the sound disappear when you when you take your foot off the gas or is it when you apply the brake?. Does it get worse when you turn a corner. If so its your CV joint, which'll run you around $45 for a rebuilt one
Also, since replacing the front brakes I've been hearing a clicking type of noise coming from the front of the car when the car is in motion, but it stops when the brakes are applied. Is this some kind of issue with the brakes I just installed?
Thanks for your help!Dragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?the metal to metal sound you hear may very well be a front wheel bearing which is a sealed bearing meaning there is no way for you to put grease in it when it rubs its bad and has to be replaced. Now on that same note if the bearing is bad and has been dragging it could also cause your cv shaft (constant velocity shaft) to heat up and go bad therefore causing a clicking sound if they are both coming from the same side of the car 9 times out of 10 this is what happened. Hope this helps you out.Dragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?The rotor should not be resurfaced. Just buy a new one. I don't think the rotor causes a grinding sound when you apply your brakes unless its metal to metal. I would check over the brakes to make sure you did everything correctly.Dragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?if you have rear drum brakes you might have a spring broke or came loose.Dragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?cv joint maybeDragging sound when applying brakes in 98 Ford Escort?Badly gouged rotors will cause a dragging sound, but they need to be reeallly bad before you'll hear them, also the car will not brake as well if it has rotors that have grooves in them
How often do you drive the car?, as if it sits for a while in between drives the rotors will get a surface coat of rust which will make a rubbing sound until you clean off the rotors by applying the brakes..
Resurfacing your rotors will run you between $15 and $20 each, I bought new rotors for my 97 Escort the other day for $20 each.
The clicking is likely your CV joint going out. Does the sound disappear when you when you take your foot off the gas or is it when you apply the brake?. Does it get worse when you turn a corner. If so its your CV joint, which'll run you around $45 for a rebuilt one
My rear brake pads doesn't have any wear, why?
From the brake upgrade that I did from last year I notice that my rear brake pads haven't worn at all. My fronts were worn down to the point that I have to change the rotors, but something must be wrong here. How could the fronts wear down so much with the rears not even being touched?
I do notice, however, that the pads only seem to be making contact with certain parts of the rotors.My rear brake pads doesn't have any wear, why?Any time you do brakes on a car, it is easier and safer to change the calipers as well as the brake pads. More than likely the rear caliper piston is not extending as far as needed.My rear brake pads doesn't have any wear, why?When %26quot;you%26quot; replaced your brake pads last year, you probably bled the system incorrectly or somehow caused the %26quot;transfer valve/isolation valve%26quot; to shift, eliminating the rear brakes entirely. The light bulb may be burnt out, but the brake light on the dash should be lit continuously if that happened.
If you have full ABS brakes, there could be sensor or command function problems isolating your rear brakes.My rear brake pads doesn't have any wear, why?If they are drum brakes they need to be adjusted, if they are rotors the piston may be frozen and you will need to replace it. I have seen cases wgere the piston was not brought straight back and now it won't move, hard tyo tell not being able to see what is going on.My rear brake pads doesn't have any wear, why?Is it too much to ask to include year/make/model of vehicle?
I do notice, however, that the pads only seem to be making contact with certain parts of the rotors.My rear brake pads doesn't have any wear, why?Any time you do brakes on a car, it is easier and safer to change the calipers as well as the brake pads. More than likely the rear caliper piston is not extending as far as needed.My rear brake pads doesn't have any wear, why?When %26quot;you%26quot; replaced your brake pads last year, you probably bled the system incorrectly or somehow caused the %26quot;transfer valve/isolation valve%26quot; to shift, eliminating the rear brakes entirely. The light bulb may be burnt out, but the brake light on the dash should be lit continuously if that happened.
If you have full ABS brakes, there could be sensor or command function problems isolating your rear brakes.My rear brake pads doesn't have any wear, why?If they are drum brakes they need to be adjusted, if they are rotors the piston may be frozen and you will need to replace it. I have seen cases wgere the piston was not brought straight back and now it won't move, hard tyo tell not being able to see what is going on.My rear brake pads doesn't have any wear, why?Is it too much to ask to include year/make/model of vehicle?
Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
I've basically worn my brake pads down to the bone; my car makes a pretty loud grinding noise everytime I brake, although I haven't noticed any %26quot;spongy%26quot; feeling in the brake pedal or shaking in the wheel. I don't even have to press the brake pedal all the way to the floor when I brake.
I know I need new brake pads, and my dad insisted that I needed new rotors too due to the metal-on-metal grinding, but I just looked at the rotors and they look pretty good! There is some rusting on the outside edges and in a few other patches, but no deep grooves. The rotors kind of look like records-you know, those strange old things that grandmas and grandpas used to listen to. I couldn't check their thickness, but I've never had these ones machined before, so I think they should be in pretty good shape.
My working knowledge of cars is generally pitiful, but I'm pretty sure that I can figure out how to change my brake pads on my own.
So my questions are
A) Can I change my brake pads myself and leave the rotors as they are without any dire consequences?
B) If I take the car to a mechanic to have the pads changed, do they normally machine the rotors when they change the pads as a part of the service? One place quoted me about $160 to change the brake pads, but I forgot to ask if machining is included and now its too late to call back.
C) Can I save money if I just change my own pads, then take the rotors to a mechanic to machine? If so, what would the general cost be for my two front rotors?
Also, I drive a '98 Ford Explorer, 2WD (I'm pretty sure its rear-wheel).
Thanks for any input!Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?It's dire because none of us can measure or inspect the rotors. The rotor friction contact surfaces must be flat and parallel and measure above the discard thickness. Any auto-parts can tell you what the minimum allowable thickness is. You can measure the thickness with a 0-1 micrometer or a vernier caliper. Prepare to be hozed if they want to sell you rotors. Inquire how much they are and where they were made. Off-shore brake rotors can be purchased at any auto parts-store for less than $35.00. Thy are made of terrible quality of cast iron. This is a wake-up call cause chain brake shops, private mechanics and new car dealerships install these cheap rotors and charge you premium prices for what you could by the best brands for.Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?Whenever u do brakes u should either cut the rotors or heave then replaced the pads need a new surface to wear into or else the won't last Long and since it's an explorer it would be cheaper to just replace them I charge45 to cut when neW ones are only 25 eachRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?Ok, here's what I would do. Yes, you can change them yourself. Get your pads from Kragen's/Checker/Schuukcs(my favorite). Most of the do rotor and drum machining for something like $10. Buy the lifetime pads they sell for like $30. Have them show you as they measure the rotor thickness if they tell you that you need new ones. The %26quot;record grooving%26quot; you mention could go either way as faras needing new rotors. Some brand new rotors do not come factory thick enough to be machined even once. It all depends on the mfgr. And, it being a 98, how many brake jobs were done prior to now?Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?yes it is rwd or 4 WD
i just replaced rotors on the same basic truck
the rotors can be had for around $30 a piece
call your local parts store (pep boys ,murrays, ETC)
there are 2 bolts that hold the brake caliber to the rotor get the proper tool at the same time
it takes about 45 min with simple hand tools
save yourself a few bux and buy a chiltons book and fix it yourself its really not so hard
you will also need a C clamp to compress the caliber once you have it apart
i am believeing there will be visable wear on the inside of the rotor
hope this helpsRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?A) you could do it yourself with a little bit of knowledge, but your rotors DEFINANTLY need replacing, rotors are suppose to be smooth, not grooved like records
B) if the rotors are still withing spec, they can be machined down, but if you ground them under their specs, they'll need to be replaced. if they're charinging $160, they should be machining the rotors then, or else that's just a very expensive pad replacement
C) like i said, you can do it yourself, but there's a lot of things that could go wrong, i would recommend you take it to a mechanic. they'll have all the tools for the job, so you dont have to go out and buy extra stuff that you probably wont use ever again just for one job
and it is a RWD car ;)Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?If brake rotors look like records you will wear you new pads out pematurely. The thickness of the rotor wether it looks good or not is going to make or break wether or not they can be machined.
If you take them to a decent shop/mechanic they won't turn them unless they measure above spec.
$160 to change pads sounds like includes machine work if applicable.
http://waz-stuff.blogspot.com/lock file excel
I know I need new brake pads, and my dad insisted that I needed new rotors too due to the metal-on-metal grinding, but I just looked at the rotors and they look pretty good! There is some rusting on the outside edges and in a few other patches, but no deep grooves. The rotors kind of look like records-you know, those strange old things that grandmas and grandpas used to listen to. I couldn't check their thickness, but I've never had these ones machined before, so I think they should be in pretty good shape.
My working knowledge of cars is generally pitiful, but I'm pretty sure that I can figure out how to change my brake pads on my own.
So my questions are
A) Can I change my brake pads myself and leave the rotors as they are without any dire consequences?
B) If I take the car to a mechanic to have the pads changed, do they normally machine the rotors when they change the pads as a part of the service? One place quoted me about $160 to change the brake pads, but I forgot to ask if machining is included and now its too late to call back.
C) Can I save money if I just change my own pads, then take the rotors to a mechanic to machine? If so, what would the general cost be for my two front rotors?
Also, I drive a '98 Ford Explorer, 2WD (I'm pretty sure its rear-wheel).
Thanks for any input!Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?It's dire because none of us can measure or inspect the rotors. The rotor friction contact surfaces must be flat and parallel and measure above the discard thickness. Any auto-parts can tell you what the minimum allowable thickness is. You can measure the thickness with a 0-1 micrometer or a vernier caliper. Prepare to be hozed if they want to sell you rotors. Inquire how much they are and where they were made. Off-shore brake rotors can be purchased at any auto parts-store for less than $35.00. Thy are made of terrible quality of cast iron. This is a wake-up call cause chain brake shops, private mechanics and new car dealerships install these cheap rotors and charge you premium prices for what you could by the best brands for.Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?Whenever u do brakes u should either cut the rotors or heave then replaced the pads need a new surface to wear into or else the won't last Long and since it's an explorer it would be cheaper to just replace them I charge45 to cut when neW ones are only 25 eachRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?Ok, here's what I would do. Yes, you can change them yourself. Get your pads from Kragen's/Checker/Schuukcs(my favorite). Most of the do rotor and drum machining for something like $10. Buy the lifetime pads they sell for like $30. Have them show you as they measure the rotor thickness if they tell you that you need new ones. The %26quot;record grooving%26quot; you mention could go either way as faras needing new rotors. Some brand new rotors do not come factory thick enough to be machined even once. It all depends on the mfgr. And, it being a 98, how many brake jobs were done prior to now?Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?yes it is rwd or 4 WD
i just replaced rotors on the same basic truck
the rotors can be had for around $30 a piece
call your local parts store (pep boys ,murrays, ETC)
there are 2 bolts that hold the brake caliber to the rotor get the proper tool at the same time
it takes about 45 min with simple hand tools
save yourself a few bux and buy a chiltons book and fix it yourself its really not so hard
you will also need a C clamp to compress the caliber once you have it apart
i am believeing there will be visable wear on the inside of the rotor
hope this helpsRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?A) you could do it yourself with a little bit of knowledge, but your rotors DEFINANTLY need replacing, rotors are suppose to be smooth, not grooved like records
B) if the rotors are still withing spec, they can be machined down, but if you ground them under their specs, they'll need to be replaced. if they're charinging $160, they should be machining the rotors then, or else that's just a very expensive pad replacement
C) like i said, you can do it yourself, but there's a lot of things that could go wrong, i would recommend you take it to a mechanic. they'll have all the tools for the job, so you dont have to go out and buy extra stuff that you probably wont use ever again just for one job
and it is a RWD car ;)Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?If brake rotors look like records you will wear you new pads out pematurely. The thickness of the rotor wether it looks good or not is going to make or break wether or not they can be machined.
If you take them to a decent shop/mechanic they won't turn them unless they measure above spec.
$160 to change pads sounds like includes machine work if applicable.
http://waz-stuff.blogspot.com/
How do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?
How do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang. These bolts don't seem to budge. I am trying to change the back brake pads and rotors. I have done the front brakes before and had no problems. Is there a trick I do not know about for the back brakes. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. The car is 2002 ford mustang V6 automatic coupeHow do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?the caliper bolts might have seized... should be some 10 or 13 mm head bolts... but try some penetrent like PB MAX to try and loosen it up first
Also you will need a tool to retract the caliper as the parking brake is part of the caliperHow do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?Righty tighty, lefty loosey.How do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?pushing the piston back in, takes a special tool, then you need to turn the piston clockwise and push at the same time,and as you turn they slowly go in
Also you will need a tool to retract the caliper as the parking brake is part of the caliperHow do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?Righty tighty, lefty loosey.How do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?pushing the piston back in, takes a special tool, then you need to turn the piston clockwise and push at the same time,and as you turn they slowly go in
Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?
I took my Jeep to get an oil change yesterday and the mechanic told me they noticed that my FRONT break pads were 85% worn, and the rotors will need to be replaced. They said I would need a break flush, my rear breaks cleaned, and completely new front pads %26amp; rotors.
Funny thing is, I had ALL FOUR of my break pads and rotors replaced 4 years ago. I paid a heck a lot of money for that job and I sure can't afford to replace the front ones right now! Are they just trying to get my money? Is 4 years typical for a new rotor and break pad service???
My brother works on Jeeps and has replaced his own breaks since he's owned Jeeps, and when he gets a chance he will take a look at them for me. But right now I wanted to ask a mechanic out there who can be honest with me. How did my rotors run down in less than 40k miles?
Can the rotors really wear down before the break pads completely wear down??? Or do the pads wear down first, then the rotors become affected?
I do stop a LOT going to school and work and a few times I had to break HARD to avoid a potential accident...so maybe my style of driving could affect it?
Please explain! thanks!Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?Brakes wear out with use, the pads are supposed to be the wear item but there are factors in rotor wear.
Four years doesn't sound bad as most drivers drive 12k miles a year.
You could pay your brother to do it much cheaper due to parts price mark up if he is willing.
Yes your braking habits make a big difference but by the sounds of things you are doing good (4years 48k miles).
Brakes are a part of life no pun intended.
Be glad your service shop is looking out for you by giving you the brake down before you have one :)Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?4 years out of a set of brakes isn't too bad. Brake life also depends on your driving habits (highway driving uses less brakes, and if you put the pedal to the metal between every stop light, you will wear them out quickly). Gearing down can help improve brake life if you have a manual transmission. My civic has 140K on it and I haven't replaced the brakes or rotors yet (mostly highway driving though).
You may have had cheap rotors (not very thick) put on your vehicle... if you pay extra you can buy thicker ones that can be resurfaced a couple of times).Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?Hi there.
If this guy was changing your oil and doing a grease job, how did he see all the problems with your brakes? I don't think he told you the truth, maybe just looking for extra work to make money. They do that a lot and that scam has been on TV a lot. Unless you pound on your car and do fast stops all the time and misuse your car, it should be a lot longer before you need brake work. My own observations have taught me this.Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?First off, forget the four years ago, heh heh. you are due for another brake job...unless the rotors are scored badly you should not have to replace them, just scuff them up a bit with sand paper. If the front pads are within 1/8th inch of the rotors, you need to replace them. Likewise, if the rear brake shoes are worn down within 1/8th inch you'll need them soon....Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?FOUR YEARS IS A LONG TIME most people get breaks done every 1 to 2 years. you are lucky. its expensive because of the labor and parts markup that's why I do my own brake's and it always cost me about 250 if I need pads and new rotors. Its cost me about 78 if I just need pads so its the parts markup and the labor cost is what drives up the price. Stopping short every once in a while is okay every body has to do it now and then. The rotors can be used over again they will out last the pads but if they are warped from heat than they need to be replaced. you can get 60K out of a set of rotors and drums. 40K miles is ALLOT for breaks I'm surprised they lasted that long.Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?Yes, your driving habits can definately affect your brake wear. Also the type of Jeep can too. A Cherokee with full time all wheel drive will eat brakes faster then a locking hub model. As for new rotors and fluid, this is questionable. A mechanic would need to measure (mic) the rotor thickness to see is they have enough metal left to resurface (turn) your current rotors. If there is, this should run no more than 20 bucks per rotor. Now just replace the pads and you are good to go. The fluid only needs to be replaced if it is dirty and/or moisture ridden. If this is the case, the fluid will be dark in color. Many mechanics will tell you that you need the whole system replaced to cover their bitts as well as make more money. All I can say is beware.Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?Generally, I have found that front brake pads last about 25,000 miles and the rotors should be okay unless the pads wore too far and scratched the rotors. If the rotors are warped, which you can tell as a pulsing when you apply the brakes, the rotors probably need to be replaced unless there is enough to machine. Today's rotors don't have a lot extra for machining. Rear brakes usually last about twice as long as the fronts. To get an idea what brake parts cost, call Autozone and ask for prices. Also, Autozone guarantees some brands of brake parts (including pads or shoes) for life. You can get new pads once a year. Of course you have to put them on or find someone who will.Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?you done real good if you got 4 years driving from it,and yes they do need to be replaced pretty often if you do a lot of stop and go driving,they probably wasn't lying to you about it,if you doubt them have another shop check it and see what they tell you,very often ,especially these days people doubt what a mechanic tells them because so many mechanics are ripping people off,the best way to avoid being ripped off is have it checked by another shop,good luck with it.Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?If the rotors are smooth and shiny they are OK.
Funny thing is, I had ALL FOUR of my break pads and rotors replaced 4 years ago. I paid a heck a lot of money for that job and I sure can't afford to replace the front ones right now! Are they just trying to get my money? Is 4 years typical for a new rotor and break pad service???
My brother works on Jeeps and has replaced his own breaks since he's owned Jeeps, and when he gets a chance he will take a look at them for me. But right now I wanted to ask a mechanic out there who can be honest with me. How did my rotors run down in less than 40k miles?
Can the rotors really wear down before the break pads completely wear down??? Or do the pads wear down first, then the rotors become affected?
I do stop a LOT going to school and work and a few times I had to break HARD to avoid a potential accident...so maybe my style of driving could affect it?
Please explain! thanks!Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?Brakes wear out with use, the pads are supposed to be the wear item but there are factors in rotor wear.
Four years doesn't sound bad as most drivers drive 12k miles a year.
You could pay your brother to do it much cheaper due to parts price mark up if he is willing.
Yes your braking habits make a big difference but by the sounds of things you are doing good (4years 48k miles).
Brakes are a part of life no pun intended.
Be glad your service shop is looking out for you by giving you the brake down before you have one :)Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?4 years out of a set of brakes isn't too bad. Brake life also depends on your driving habits (highway driving uses less brakes, and if you put the pedal to the metal between every stop light, you will wear them out quickly). Gearing down can help improve brake life if you have a manual transmission. My civic has 140K on it and I haven't replaced the brakes or rotors yet (mostly highway driving though).
You may have had cheap rotors (not very thick) put on your vehicle... if you pay extra you can buy thicker ones that can be resurfaced a couple of times).Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?Hi there.
If this guy was changing your oil and doing a grease job, how did he see all the problems with your brakes? I don't think he told you the truth, maybe just looking for extra work to make money. They do that a lot and that scam has been on TV a lot. Unless you pound on your car and do fast stops all the time and misuse your car, it should be a lot longer before you need brake work. My own observations have taught me this.Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?First off, forget the four years ago, heh heh. you are due for another brake job...unless the rotors are scored badly you should not have to replace them, just scuff them up a bit with sand paper. If the front pads are within 1/8th inch of the rotors, you need to replace them. Likewise, if the rear brake shoes are worn down within 1/8th inch you'll need them soon....Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?FOUR YEARS IS A LONG TIME most people get breaks done every 1 to 2 years. you are lucky. its expensive because of the labor and parts markup that's why I do my own brake's and it always cost me about 250 if I need pads and new rotors. Its cost me about 78 if I just need pads so its the parts markup and the labor cost is what drives up the price. Stopping short every once in a while is okay every body has to do it now and then. The rotors can be used over again they will out last the pads but if they are warped from heat than they need to be replaced. you can get 60K out of a set of rotors and drums. 40K miles is ALLOT for breaks I'm surprised they lasted that long.Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?Yes, your driving habits can definately affect your brake wear. Also the type of Jeep can too. A Cherokee with full time all wheel drive will eat brakes faster then a locking hub model. As for new rotors and fluid, this is questionable. A mechanic would need to measure (mic) the rotor thickness to see is they have enough metal left to resurface (turn) your current rotors. If there is, this should run no more than 20 bucks per rotor. Now just replace the pads and you are good to go. The fluid only needs to be replaced if it is dirty and/or moisture ridden. If this is the case, the fluid will be dark in color. Many mechanics will tell you that you need the whole system replaced to cover their bitts as well as make more money. All I can say is beware.Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?Generally, I have found that front brake pads last about 25,000 miles and the rotors should be okay unless the pads wore too far and scratched the rotors. If the rotors are warped, which you can tell as a pulsing when you apply the brakes, the rotors probably need to be replaced unless there is enough to machine. Today's rotors don't have a lot extra for machining. Rear brakes usually last about twice as long as the fronts. To get an idea what brake parts cost, call Autozone and ask for prices. Also, Autozone guarantees some brands of brake parts (including pads or shoes) for life. You can get new pads once a year. Of course you have to put them on or find someone who will.Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?you done real good if you got 4 years driving from it,and yes they do need to be replaced pretty often if you do a lot of stop and go driving,they probably wasn't lying to you about it,if you doubt them have another shop check it and see what they tell you,very often ,especially these days people doubt what a mechanic tells them because so many mechanics are ripping people off,the best way to avoid being ripped off is have it checked by another shop,good luck with it.Help! break pads AND rotors...how often do they need to be replaced?If the rotors are smooth and shiny they are OK.
How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
I had to change the front brake pads in my 95 chevrolet beretta a couple of days ago. I bled the tires then added in more brake fluid. When I pressed the brake pedal it went to the floor and didn't stop the car from moving.
The next day I bled all four tires and got a little more stopping power but the pedal is still touching the floor. The calipers were squeezing the rotors. This time I noticed that the amount of brake fluid in my reservoir pretty much stayed the same since the previous bleeding.
What could be causing the problem? Is it the master cylinder or did I not bleed it enough?How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?You need to have somebody help you bleed the brakes until you get all the air out.
Sometimes this can be frustrating but keep after it until all the air is out.How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?if you didn't follow the bleeding procedure it could do thatHow do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?First off make sure you have the back brakes if they are drum brakes set up and adjusted properly using the adjuster wheel on each one, set them so the brakes are dragging just a little against the brake drums, next you need to bleed the brakes in proper sequence, passenger side rear first, drivers side rear, passenger side front and finally drivers side front and don't let the fluid run out in the master cylinder while bleeding, keep it filled up, keep bleeding until you don't see any air bubbles coming out on each wheel.How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?i agree with brian you didnt bleed them in the correct order
The next day I bled all four tires and got a little more stopping power but the pedal is still touching the floor. The calipers were squeezing the rotors. This time I noticed that the amount of brake fluid in my reservoir pretty much stayed the same since the previous bleeding.
What could be causing the problem? Is it the master cylinder or did I not bleed it enough?How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?You need to have somebody help you bleed the brakes until you get all the air out.
Sometimes this can be frustrating but keep after it until all the air is out.How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?if you didn't follow the bleeding procedure it could do thatHow do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?First off make sure you have the back brakes if they are drum brakes set up and adjusted properly using the adjuster wheel on each one, set them so the brakes are dragging just a little against the brake drums, next you need to bleed the brakes in proper sequence, passenger side rear first, drivers side rear, passenger side front and finally drivers side front and don't let the fluid run out in the master cylinder while bleeding, keep it filled up, keep bleeding until you don't see any air bubbles coming out on each wheel.How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?i agree with brian you didnt bleed them in the correct order
How much can I sell my car for that does not start?
I have a 1996 Honda Civic Dx Hatchba ck Midori Green! Its a rare car, honda only made it that color, for that model and that year. Everywhere I go people are always admiring the car and color and asking to buy. I wanted to sell it to get something newer and larger, but then it stopped working. The alternator went and ever since I got it changed the car would not start. I just want it off my hands. The body is in good condition, NO RUST watsoever, lovely car, 156K, comes with 5 rims, circuit city radio, just changed rotors, brakes, alternator and had the front axle done. How much do you think I can get for this car? I'm asking 2,000 for it, is that not a possibility? The blue book value is 3,080. I'm sure theres people who would fix this car up and race it (those hatchback honda lovers) or simply strip for parts for the same car (since its hard to find in that color).
Any suggestions would be helpful! Thank You!How much can I sell my car for that does not start?unless your selling it for parts
it needs to start and run.
otherwise your limiting your buyers.How much can I sell my car for that does not start?you may wish to fix this car before you sell it . 2k sounds like a decent price but people dont want to gamble with a car purchase,if they could hear it run and possibly drive it they are more likely to buy it.try to get it fixed and add that to the selling price.
Any suggestions would be helpful! Thank You!How much can I sell my car for that does not start?unless your selling it for parts
it needs to start and run.
otherwise your limiting your buyers.How much can I sell my car for that does not start?you may wish to fix this car before you sell it . 2k sounds like a decent price but people dont want to gamble with a car purchase,if they could hear it run and possibly drive it they are more likely to buy it.try to get it fixed and add that to the selling price.
How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?
just replaced pads and rotors on front, now drivers side rotor gets way hot,smokes anyone know what i did wrong? ive changed pads and rotors a few times and never had any problems.How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?well if u never opened up the bleeder you should not have to bleed the brakes at all. If your rotors are smoking after u used them a few times and getting too hot i would check to make sure your slides are working. take the caliper off again make sure both of the slide pins are not frozen or one is not frozen. Also, make sure your brake hoses are good, sometimes they can collapse inside and not let fluid come back and keep your piston held down. So if you don't have bad slide pins i would go with a brake hose.How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?did the slides move freely? did the piston push in freely? you may need to replace the caliper and hoseHow to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?caliper seize up. you need to replace it or rebuild it.its your choice.or brake hose collapse.How to bleed brakes on 1992 olds eighty eight?sounds like the caliper (the part that moves in and out and holds the pad, is locked in the out position. doesn't sound like you need to bleed the brakes. you only need to do that if you've compromised the system and lost fluid and or let air into the system. take that wheel off and work on getting the caliper to go in and out (back) like it should. maybe the pad isn't setting in it's place correctly and is jammed up against the rotor. without getting the pad wet why not try some wd-40 in there to see if that will help. then wipe the excess off. make sure you can see it going out and then returning in.iis web server hot myspace
How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
How can I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run smoother?
It has 68k original miles. Bought the car for $1900 and it runs but nothing else work (windows, clock, lights, etc). Just some surface rust. I changed, plugs, wires, rotors. Just bought a fuel pump, high volume oil pump and water pump. Every mechanic says it runs strong but I would like for it to run smoother!
Other than rebuilding the engine (Because the engine runs strong and its Mileage) what other things can I change out on it to have it run better before I rebuild the front end and paint it? And also where can I get the parts from?
Also, if you have a front windshield let me know Email: emeka2345@aol.comHow do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?You don't mention which engine you have, but, I had an old Lincoln with a 460 and it took a new carburetor to make her run right. As the old sayin' goes, She would pass anything but a gas station after that. Good Luck!How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?Replace it with a 1972 Chevrolet Monte Carlo.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?Check all your vacuum hoses for cracks and leaks...do the basics by testing the compression first and making sure you do not have a low cylinder causing the engine to not run smoothly....then take your 400 lb suicide door and smash that ol 72 Monte into the ground.....jk....good luckHow do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?In 1966, engines didn't have a lot of electronic controls, so 'rough idle' was a common problem. Basically, this is a Ford product, so you might be able to retrofit it with throttle body fuel injection and electronic ignition. Check for vacuum leaks and have the compression tested. This is important, because you might have some leaky or sticky valves, carbon buildup which raises compression or variations between cylinders. Check out the electrical system before you invest much more in the car. Also be sure the distributor cap is clean and that the distributor vacuum advance is working.
Finally, keep in mind that this car was probably designed to run on high octane, leaded (premium) gas. That is a problem, because it has probably been de-tuned to use lower octane unleaded. As I recall, unleaded gas also causes excessive wear on the valve stems and guides. If you want to keep it all original, for show, then you probably don't want to upgrade the engine and go to fuel injection. If you want to drive it daily, the improved fuel economy should be a good reason to modernize the engine controls. Look for parts from a later model, with the same size engine.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?being a mel (mercury, edsel, lincoln) block engine, if it were me i would just replace the carburetor with a 600 cfm edelbrock if the compression test checks out. if it doesnt then pull the engine and build a 460 for it. youll be in much less money building a 460 than a mel block.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?REBUILD THE CARBURETOR.
It has 68k original miles. Bought the car for $1900 and it runs but nothing else work (windows, clock, lights, etc). Just some surface rust. I changed, plugs, wires, rotors. Just bought a fuel pump, high volume oil pump and water pump. Every mechanic says it runs strong but I would like for it to run smoother!
Other than rebuilding the engine (Because the engine runs strong and its Mileage) what other things can I change out on it to have it run better before I rebuild the front end and paint it? And also where can I get the parts from?
Also, if you have a front windshield let me know Email: emeka2345@aol.comHow do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?You don't mention which engine you have, but, I had an old Lincoln with a 460 and it took a new carburetor to make her run right. As the old sayin' goes, She would pass anything but a gas station after that. Good Luck!How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?Replace it with a 1972 Chevrolet Monte Carlo.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?Check all your vacuum hoses for cracks and leaks...do the basics by testing the compression first and making sure you do not have a low cylinder causing the engine to not run smoothly....then take your 400 lb suicide door and smash that ol 72 Monte into the ground.....jk....good luckHow do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?In 1966, engines didn't have a lot of electronic controls, so 'rough idle' was a common problem. Basically, this is a Ford product, so you might be able to retrofit it with throttle body fuel injection and electronic ignition. Check for vacuum leaks and have the compression tested. This is important, because you might have some leaky or sticky valves, carbon buildup which raises compression or variations between cylinders. Check out the electrical system before you invest much more in the car. Also be sure the distributor cap is clean and that the distributor vacuum advance is working.
Finally, keep in mind that this car was probably designed to run on high octane, leaded (premium) gas. That is a problem, because it has probably been de-tuned to use lower octane unleaded. As I recall, unleaded gas also causes excessive wear on the valve stems and guides. If you want to keep it all original, for show, then you probably don't want to upgrade the engine and go to fuel injection. If you want to drive it daily, the improved fuel economy should be a good reason to modernize the engine controls. Look for parts from a later model, with the same size engine.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?being a mel (mercury, edsel, lincoln) block engine, if it were me i would just replace the carburetor with a 600 cfm edelbrock if the compression test checks out. if it doesnt then pull the engine and build a 460 for it. youll be in much less money building a 460 than a mel block.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?REBUILD THE CARBURETOR.
How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?
I just recently bought a 2003 Mazda 6 with 25,000 mile on it. I notice that there is a slight sqeeke when I break and would like to change the pads now before they wear the rotor. I first thought about going to the shop but the idea of spending $150.00 per axal is appalling (especial when you consider that a set of pads for the front and another for the back only cost a total of $40.00). I also own a 1997 Mazda 626 and have done the front brakes on it a number of times. What I needed to know is is there any difference between changing the brakes on the old one versus the new one. Are there any special tools I need? Are there any free online resources for repair and maintanance? I tried to find a Chiltons or a Haynes at my local auto store but they don't have one for a Mazda 6. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also I plan on doing the brakes today so that I may take a road trip this weekend. ThanksHow to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?opti
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?opti
That site, and mazda6club.com have all the information you will ever need for your car.How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?No, brake pads technology hasn't changed. You could probably follow the same procedures you did on you 1997.
The only special tools are what it takes to remove the calipers. Some use Torques, other allen, I prefer just the regular bolts but you'll have to take the wheel off to see what was used.
Yeah, the Mazda 6 is too new to see anything on line too. (sorry)
Autozone has put out a great set of manuals for all older vehicles that you can get online now.
(ie for your 97 Mazda)
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker
However like I said most brake systems haven't changed much and replacement has been done in the same fashion.How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?It is the same process for changing the pads on any car. What you are primarily paying for with brake jobs is labor. Yes, the parts are $40, but that means you are being billed $110 for labor, and since the standard labor rates for mechanics are around $60 an hour, that's about two hours work, which is about right.
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?opti
That site, and mazda6club.com have all the information you will ever need for your car.How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?No, brake pads technology hasn't changed. You could probably follow the same procedures you did on you 1997.
The only special tools are what it takes to remove the calipers. Some use Torques, other allen, I prefer just the regular bolts but you'll have to take the wheel off to see what was used.
Yeah, the Mazda 6 is too new to see anything on line too. (sorry)
Autozone has put out a great set of manuals for all older vehicles that you can get online now.
(ie for your 97 Mazda)
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker
However like I said most brake systems haven't changed much and replacement has been done in the same fashion.How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?It is the same process for changing the pads on any car. What you are primarily paying for with brake jobs is labor. Yes, the parts are $40, but that means you are being billed $110 for labor, and since the standard labor rates for mechanics are around $60 an hour, that's about two hours work, which is about right.
'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please help
I replaced the left caliper, and i think i did every thing right. Some1 tell me the steps. So i know i did it correct. Not doing brake 4 a while you forget things.
I don't think its the master cylinder. it worked fine be4 hand. I bought a rebuild caliper. Do you need to do something to it before you install. The piston isn't moving. I have bled the left (or does both sides need 2 be bled? I don't remember.) But still the rotor turns free.
And how do you bleed a line not using a hose. I am also worried about tripping the proportioning valve. I Need answer Quickly. thanks
Oh on side note. Who knows the secret of getting a auto part dealers to deliver to a house. My leg are getting tired.'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please helpFirst, you should only replace calipers in axle sets (both front calipers at the same time). This prevents problems from having unmatched assemblies.
Second, I have seen rebuilt calipers that do not work properly out of the box.
Lastly, how old are your flexible brake hoses? they can internally fail and not allow fluid to flow through them.
Brakes are very important, be safe and pay someone to help you with this!
BTW You have to be a regular customer with an account to have parts delivered to your door!'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please helpyes you make sure you bleed all brake lines you may have to do it 2or 3 times beforre the air is all out'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please helpCan you believe it? Some guy believed that yasra means 'the chosen one' in Sanskrit. LoL!'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please helpAll you have to bleed is the caliper in question, if its not moving there is air in it. Half of the time a person replaces a caliper it is the rubber line that is the problem not the caliper. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper after pumping the brake a couple of times and while someone is holding down on the brake pedal open the valve slowly let bubbles out then close, repeat 2 or 3 times then if it isn't working it isn't the caliper, check the line and look under the master cylinder and look for fluid. What made you think the caliper was bad in the first place?'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please helpyou're brakes are still full of air. open the bleeder valve and have someone slowly push the brake pedal down. once it's down have them hold it there while you tighten the bleeder valve. if no fluid came out repeat this process a couple times. then start a normal brake bleeding procedure. I would recomeend you bleed both front brakes as the air could have been introduced into the system while you had it apart. also make sure the master cylinder is full before starting and check the level often so that it doesn't go dry during the bleeding process and let more air in.
I don't think its the master cylinder. it worked fine be4 hand. I bought a rebuild caliper. Do you need to do something to it before you install. The piston isn't moving. I have bled the left (or does both sides need 2 be bled? I don't remember.) But still the rotor turns free.
And how do you bleed a line not using a hose. I am also worried about tripping the proportioning valve. I Need answer Quickly. thanks
Oh on side note. Who knows the secret of getting a auto part dealers to deliver to a house. My leg are getting tired.'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please helpFirst, you should only replace calipers in axle sets (both front calipers at the same time). This prevents problems from having unmatched assemblies.
Second, I have seen rebuilt calipers that do not work properly out of the box.
Lastly, how old are your flexible brake hoses? they can internally fail and not allow fluid to flow through them.
Brakes are very important, be safe and pay someone to help you with this!
BTW You have to be a regular customer with an account to have parts delivered to your door!'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please helpyes you make sure you bleed all brake lines you may have to do it 2or 3 times beforre the air is all out'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please helpCan you believe it? Some guy believed that yasra means 'the chosen one' in Sanskrit. LoL!'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please helpAll you have to bleed is the caliper in question, if its not moving there is air in it. Half of the time a person replaces a caliper it is the rubber line that is the problem not the caliper. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper after pumping the brake a couple of times and while someone is holding down on the brake pedal open the valve slowly let bubbles out then close, repeat 2 or 3 times then if it isn't working it isn't the caliper, check the line and look under the master cylinder and look for fluid. What made you think the caliper was bad in the first place?'74 gmc 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. I changed the left front caliper, and after install found trouble, please helpyou're brakes are still full of air. open the bleeder valve and have someone slowly push the brake pedal down. once it's down have them hold it there while you tighten the bleeder valve. if no fluid came out repeat this process a couple times. then start a normal brake bleeding procedure. I would recomeend you bleed both front brakes as the air could have been introduced into the system while you had it apart. also make sure the master cylinder is full before starting and check the level often so that it doesn't go dry during the bleeding process and let more air in.
Brake problems on Pontiac G6?
I have a 05 Pontiac G6 GT. I was living in Syracuse, NY (since I bought it in 05 until last fall) and have relocated to Ga. I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with their brakes on this car? I was having my rotors turned every oil change, front one time then the rear. They had to replace my rotors before I hit 25,000 mi because they had turned them too much. I have also had my pads replaced (all under warranty). I am STILL having the same problems??? They grab, and just feel rough when I brake. I think it is a caliber problem. The last time I took it in the dealer down here said that my rotors need turned again. They are grooved, but very little, not like before. Anyone got any ideas on what could be causing this and how to fix it? I am now over my 36,000 miles but the dealer said something about a number to call and it will be fixed under warranty?? Any and all help would be appreciated! TIA!Brake problems on Pontiac G6?the pistons in the calipers are getting egg shaped as they come out of the caliper and do not retract properly.
Go to a Nappa store for a rebuild kit. They sell the best and most reliable parts for this kind of repair. I just cant remember what the outfit is but I think its Bendix,,but its a USA outfit.
Thats the simple answer. The worst case scenarion is the brake line system has been F------p from day one and the dealers were idiots.Brake problems on Pontiac G6?talk to mech where you work. they don't have an agenda. good luck. JD
Go to a Nappa store for a rebuild kit. They sell the best and most reliable parts for this kind of repair. I just cant remember what the outfit is but I think its Bendix,,but its a USA outfit.
Thats the simple answer. The worst case scenarion is the brake line system has been F------p from day one and the dealers were idiots.Brake problems on Pontiac G6?talk to mech where you work. they don't have an agenda. good luck. JD
How much should it cost on a 2002 Toyota Camry LE (4c/2.4L) to get both sets of brakes & front rotors changed?
How much should it cost on my 2002 Toyota Camry LE (4 cylinder/2.4L) to get the front and back brakes and front rotors changed? Midas said around $750, my mechanic expects around $700, a friend at work said he could do it for $400... Not sure what to do...How much should it cost on a 2002 Toyota Camry LE (4c/2.4L) to get both sets of brakes %26amp; front rotors changed?At Autozone the pads run from $20-$55. Rear shoes=$17. Front rotors=$27-$58. The ranges are based on warranties. Change them yourself.
You'll need a jack and a socket set and either a c-clamp, or a large pair of channel locks.
Remove the front wheels, remove the bolts holding the calipers to the steering knuckle and suspend them from the struts with a wire or hanger. Pull the lock springs out of the thru-pins and remove the pins. Turn the inner pad around and collapse the piston using the c-clamp or channel locks.. Remove the old rotor and install the new one. They are what is known as floating rotors, meaning nothing but the calipers and the lug nuts hold them on. Put the new pads on the calipers in the reverse process of removing the old ones and slide the calipers over the rotors. Put the wheels back on and run the lug nuts down. Lower the vehicle so the wheel just take a little weight and torque the lugnuts down. Use about 75 foot pounds of torque. The nuts shouldn't turn easily.
The rears take a little more doing. Jack up the rear end and remove the wheels. There might be two big philips screws holding the drums on. Remove them if so. Make sure the parking brake is off. If the drums do not come off easily, use a hammer to help. Just hit the flat outside part a few times. It is usually rust between the bottom of the lug stud and the drum.
There are two big return springs between the shoes and the upper stud. Remove those. Then remove the hold down clamp. Push down and turn a quarter turn either direction to line the key up with the hold. Remove the clamp spring and rod. Remove the parking brake expander. Remove the adjuster and spring from the bottom. Collapse the adjuster some. Remove the parking brake cable from the rearward shoe. Leave the other side assembled so you can use it for reference. I would recommend having the drums turned at this time. Now reassemble using the other side as a guide. Taking pictures will also help.How much should it cost on a 2002 Toyota Camry LE (4c/2.4L) to get both sets of brakes %26amp; front rotors changed?First thing you should do, is call a local parts store and ask them for prices on each part *brake pads/shoes *rotors *calipers if you are changing them etc. and once you have a price on the parts then you should find out what the labor rates at different garages are and see where you can get the best deal. Alot of garages will try to make you spend more then you have to, so make sure to find an honest garage or get your friend to do it (as long as this friend has a fair amount of experieince) because you dont want your brakes failing.whipped cream stiff creating file
You'll need a jack and a socket set and either a c-clamp, or a large pair of channel locks.
Remove the front wheels, remove the bolts holding the calipers to the steering knuckle and suspend them from the struts with a wire or hanger. Pull the lock springs out of the thru-pins and remove the pins. Turn the inner pad around and collapse the piston using the c-clamp or channel locks.. Remove the old rotor and install the new one. They are what is known as floating rotors, meaning nothing but the calipers and the lug nuts hold them on. Put the new pads on the calipers in the reverse process of removing the old ones and slide the calipers over the rotors. Put the wheels back on and run the lug nuts down. Lower the vehicle so the wheel just take a little weight and torque the lugnuts down. Use about 75 foot pounds of torque. The nuts shouldn't turn easily.
The rears take a little more doing. Jack up the rear end and remove the wheels. There might be two big philips screws holding the drums on. Remove them if so. Make sure the parking brake is off. If the drums do not come off easily, use a hammer to help. Just hit the flat outside part a few times. It is usually rust between the bottom of the lug stud and the drum.
There are two big return springs between the shoes and the upper stud. Remove those. Then remove the hold down clamp. Push down and turn a quarter turn either direction to line the key up with the hold. Remove the clamp spring and rod. Remove the parking brake expander. Remove the adjuster and spring from the bottom. Collapse the adjuster some. Remove the parking brake cable from the rearward shoe. Leave the other side assembled so you can use it for reference. I would recommend having the drums turned at this time. Now reassemble using the other side as a guide. Taking pictures will also help.How much should it cost on a 2002 Toyota Camry LE (4c/2.4L) to get both sets of brakes %26amp; front rotors changed?First thing you should do, is call a local parts store and ask them for prices on each part *brake pads/shoes *rotors *calipers if you are changing them etc. and once you have a price on the parts then you should find out what the labor rates at different garages are and see where you can get the best deal. Alot of garages will try to make you spend more then you have to, so make sure to find an honest garage or get your friend to do it (as long as this friend has a fair amount of experieince) because you dont want your brakes failing.
How can I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run smoother?
It has 68k original miles. Bought the car for $1900 and it runs but nothing else work (windows, clock, lights, etc). Just some surface rust. I changed, plugs, wires, rotors. Just bought a fuel pump, high volume oil pump and water pump. Every mechanic says it runs strong but I would like for it to run smoother!
Other than rebuilding the engine (Because the engine runs strong and its Mileage) what other things can I change out on it to have it run better before I rebuild the front end and paint it? And also where can I get the parts from?
Also, if you have a front windshield let me know Email: emeka2345@aol.comHow can I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run smoother?Replace the points and condensor, check the coil.
Other than rebuilding the engine (Because the engine runs strong and its Mileage) what other things can I change out on it to have it run better before I rebuild the front end and paint it? And also where can I get the parts from?
Also, if you have a front windshield let me know Email: emeka2345@aol.comHow can I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run smoother?Replace the points and condensor, check the coil.
Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
I recently changed the two front brake pads for the first time and followed everything correctly and was fairly simple job. The brakes were fairly worn down on my truck so I decided it was time. I did not disconnect the brake lines but I did spill some brake fluid out of the master cylinder while compressing the dual pistons on one of the calipers.
I've read that this problem is typical of air bubbles and will proceed with bleeding the brakes, but I don't know how they would have entered the system. Also could this problem be a result of dirty fluid? The fluid is dark brown and hasn't been changed in awhile so I'm going to flush the fluid as I bleed the brakes and see if that helps.
Also the rotors looked good with no grooves, dings but there was some minor discoloration in on one of the rotors, and I tried cleaning but did not go away. But I believe I did not have spongy brakes prior to replacing pads so I dont think the rotors are the cause.
Could there be any other cause then besides air bubbles that I should check or address? Are spongy brakes a safety issue?
Thanks!Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?The spongy brakes is a result of air in the brake lines, it usually takes 2 people who know how to bleed brakes to do this. It is a safety issue with having air in the brake lines, you may not be able to stop as fast as you normally would. If you are not sure on how to bleed the brakes take it to your mechanic and for a hour worth of labor he can have the brakes bled and the truck ready to go on the road.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?Possible air in system, faulty master cylinder, or the seal in your caliper/wheel cylinder has broke causing brake fluid to leak out.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?You got air in the system.
Just bleed the system this will fix it.
Good luckCause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?Bleed all the calipers and the master cylinder. This will remove air however it might have gotten in the lines. This should be done every few years anyway to remove condensation which can corrode the pistons and brake cylinders. Don't worry about the rotors. Clean up the brake fluid asap as it will permanently stain the paint. It's already too late- stains . stains. stains.. The color on the rotor indicates excess heat at some time or other.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?You are doing the right thing. Use ONLY genuine Ford brake fluid. Different brake fluids have different chemicals in them, and many are NOT compatible with each other. When the fluid gets dark brown, it IS time to replace it. It has absorbed all the moisture it can, safely. Also, it is possible that the brake pads you are using were not engineered to be used with your factory rotors. This can make it fell spongy. Do you have anti-lock brakes??? Probably not. Check for wear on your back brakes, as well. You might have a leak in your rear wheel cylinders (if so equipped). Good Luck!!
I've read that this problem is typical of air bubbles and will proceed with bleeding the brakes, but I don't know how they would have entered the system. Also could this problem be a result of dirty fluid? The fluid is dark brown and hasn't been changed in awhile so I'm going to flush the fluid as I bleed the brakes and see if that helps.
Also the rotors looked good with no grooves, dings but there was some minor discoloration in on one of the rotors, and I tried cleaning but did not go away. But I believe I did not have spongy brakes prior to replacing pads so I dont think the rotors are the cause.
Could there be any other cause then besides air bubbles that I should check or address? Are spongy brakes a safety issue?
Thanks!Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?The spongy brakes is a result of air in the brake lines, it usually takes 2 people who know how to bleed brakes to do this. It is a safety issue with having air in the brake lines, you may not be able to stop as fast as you normally would. If you are not sure on how to bleed the brakes take it to your mechanic and for a hour worth of labor he can have the brakes bled and the truck ready to go on the road.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?Possible air in system, faulty master cylinder, or the seal in your caliper/wheel cylinder has broke causing brake fluid to leak out.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?You got air in the system.
Just bleed the system this will fix it.
Good luckCause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?Bleed all the calipers and the master cylinder. This will remove air however it might have gotten in the lines. This should be done every few years anyway to remove condensation which can corrode the pistons and brake cylinders. Don't worry about the rotors. Clean up the brake fluid asap as it will permanently stain the paint. It's already too late- stains . stains. stains.. The color on the rotor indicates excess heat at some time or other.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?You are doing the right thing. Use ONLY genuine Ford brake fluid. Different brake fluids have different chemicals in them, and many are NOT compatible with each other. When the fluid gets dark brown, it IS time to replace it. It has absorbed all the moisture it can, safely. Also, it is possible that the brake pads you are using were not engineered to be used with your factory rotors. This can make it fell spongy. Do you have anti-lock brakes??? Probably not. Check for wear on your back brakes, as well. You might have a leak in your rear wheel cylinders (if so equipped). Good Luck!!
How do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
By now, the rotors may possibly be bad too because I can hear metal on metal. I need to know how to change both DIY. A lot of details please?How do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?take off the tire
feel the rotor with your finger, is it smooth, or does it have grooves like a record? grooves means it will need to be cut
remove the pads byloosening the caliper. some cars use allen wrench
then lift the caliper off the rotor, and put the new ones in their place
you''ll have to depress the plunger since the new ones are thicker( not worn) and wont fit
just squeeze them inHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?unless your a gear head dont do it to much to lose like your life....go to a mechanic it will cost a bit but well worth it...and if your a gear head you should know how to do itHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?If you have to ask, have somebody else who knows what they're doing. If you know somebody, maybe you can help him/her do it so the next time you know. It's not hard once you do it but it's not something you would want to experiment with, after all you need it to avoid killing yourself and/or others.How do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?if you don't already know i highly suggest having someone else do it and you just help them out and observe.. otherwise you may be stuck in the middle and not know anything from there :pHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?Hey Sara, Go for it.
Just take a look at this video first http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pUNvMr6i
feel the rotor with your finger, is it smooth, or does it have grooves like a record? grooves means it will need to be cut
remove the pads byloosening the caliper. some cars use allen wrench
then lift the caliper off the rotor, and put the new ones in their place
you''ll have to depress the plunger since the new ones are thicker( not worn) and wont fit
just squeeze them inHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?unless your a gear head dont do it to much to lose like your life....go to a mechanic it will cost a bit but well worth it...and if your a gear head you should know how to do itHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?If you have to ask, have somebody else who knows what they're doing. If you know somebody, maybe you can help him/her do it so the next time you know. It's not hard once you do it but it's not something you would want to experiment with, after all you need it to avoid killing yourself and/or others.How do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?if you don't already know i highly suggest having someone else do it and you just help them out and observe.. otherwise you may be stuck in the middle and not know anything from there :pHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?Hey Sara, Go for it.
Just take a look at this video first http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pUNvMr6i
How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?
I have a Honda Civic 04 DX with Discs in the front and drums in the back. I have changed the brake pads at 60K but I want more info on RotorsHow do i know when i have to replace my rotors?The minimum machining limits on most Japanese vehicles (at least here in Japan) is inside the rotor itself. It must be removed in order to see it. It generally will say %26quot;Min 19mm%26quot;, or something similiar.
For some reason, people think you must machine or %26quot;turn%26quot; the rotors every brake change, which is untrue. Most rotors can only handle 2-3 turnings (depending on how much material is removed), while some specify no machining at all...simply replace. They should not need it unless they have been grooved, warped, or have some condition that makes if necessary.
Vibrations while braking (usually in the brake pedal itself) can indicate rotors that are out of round, a faulty caliper, or incorrectly adjusted rear drum brake(s). (YES..loose shoes that refuse to self-adjust can give similiar symptoms)
Measurements must be made with a micrometer in several places going towards the center of the rotor if possible. (Go with the smallest reading if it varies). Never with a set of calipers, which can only measure the widest point at the outer edge. (Not accurate, as the edges can flare slightly, and rust can throw off the reading). A wrench is ok in a pinch, like looking thru a junkyard for a decent replacement (if you go that route), but keep in mind, a 19 mm wrench measures slightly over 19 mm.. (.4mm or .015 in. wider) otherwise, to get it over a 19 mm nut, it would be a press fit.
Factory replacements can run a couple hundred dollars, but I'm sure you can find a quality replacement for much cheaper. I'm not familiar with your particular model, but generally Hondas only require tire removal, then brake caliper, and finally the two machine screws which hold the rotor snugly to the spindle to replace the rotor. (Most common with smaller bodied Hondas)
Some require a puller to remove the rotor from the hub bearing (much more expensive)..but, more common with larger models (Legends and Inspires etc..)
Hope this helps...How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?You should always change them if there are any deep grooves in them. Otherwise, use a micrometer to determine their thickness and compare it to factory specs.How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?take one into the nearest autoparts store and have them measure is the best way. Also there is a chamfer on the egde of a rotor look for it, if you do not see the chamfer you are getting really close and definately should have them measured.How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?well when you changed your pads you were supposed to get them machined. they will tell you what kind of condition they are in. if you did get them resurfaced and they shake and feel different you probley will need some new ones. they are not very expensive and easy to changeHow do i know when i have to replace my rotors?You can sometimes tell when you're braking, you'll feel and hear a light thudding sound every 1-2 seconds, which indicates uneven groove and wear. They can also be too thin, but you'll need a micrometer to check for this (standard width is 19mm, I believe).
Typically, a shop will re-groove them to smooth them out, but this can only be done 1-2 times, then you have to change the rotors.
A garage will give you an inspection for a small fee ($20-50) or an auto parts store will eyeball and measure them for you if you remove the tire. Cost for new pair is $150-250, depending on where you live. To replace will cost you about the same. Good luck!How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?The minimum service limit for those rotors is 19mm. If there is no ridge on the outside of the rotor (you should have had them machined when you replaced your pads, so there should be no ridge). Try to fit a 19mm or 3/4 inch (the standard equivalent) open end wrench over the edge of the rotor. If it fits, your rotors are too thin and need to be replaced. You do not need to replace them to get rid of a brake pulse if there is still enough material to have them machined.
For some reason, people think you must machine or %26quot;turn%26quot; the rotors every brake change, which is untrue. Most rotors can only handle 2-3 turnings (depending on how much material is removed), while some specify no machining at all...simply replace. They should not need it unless they have been grooved, warped, or have some condition that makes if necessary.
Vibrations while braking (usually in the brake pedal itself) can indicate rotors that are out of round, a faulty caliper, or incorrectly adjusted rear drum brake(s). (YES..loose shoes that refuse to self-adjust can give similiar symptoms)
Measurements must be made with a micrometer in several places going towards the center of the rotor if possible. (Go with the smallest reading if it varies). Never with a set of calipers, which can only measure the widest point at the outer edge. (Not accurate, as the edges can flare slightly, and rust can throw off the reading). A wrench is ok in a pinch, like looking thru a junkyard for a decent replacement (if you go that route), but keep in mind, a 19 mm wrench measures slightly over 19 mm.. (.4mm or .015 in. wider) otherwise, to get it over a 19 mm nut, it would be a press fit.
Factory replacements can run a couple hundred dollars, but I'm sure you can find a quality replacement for much cheaper. I'm not familiar with your particular model, but generally Hondas only require tire removal, then brake caliper, and finally the two machine screws which hold the rotor snugly to the spindle to replace the rotor. (Most common with smaller bodied Hondas)
Some require a puller to remove the rotor from the hub bearing (much more expensive)..but, more common with larger models (Legends and Inspires etc..)
Hope this helps...How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?You should always change them if there are any deep grooves in them. Otherwise, use a micrometer to determine their thickness and compare it to factory specs.How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?take one into the nearest autoparts store and have them measure is the best way. Also there is a chamfer on the egde of a rotor look for it, if you do not see the chamfer you are getting really close and definately should have them measured.How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?well when you changed your pads you were supposed to get them machined. they will tell you what kind of condition they are in. if you did get them resurfaced and they shake and feel different you probley will need some new ones. they are not very expensive and easy to changeHow do i know when i have to replace my rotors?You can sometimes tell when you're braking, you'll feel and hear a light thudding sound every 1-2 seconds, which indicates uneven groove and wear. They can also be too thin, but you'll need a micrometer to check for this (standard width is 19mm, I believe).
Typically, a shop will re-groove them to smooth them out, but this can only be done 1-2 times, then you have to change the rotors.
A garage will give you an inspection for a small fee ($20-50) or an auto parts store will eyeball and measure them for you if you remove the tire. Cost for new pair is $150-250, depending on where you live. To replace will cost you about the same. Good luck!How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?The minimum service limit for those rotors is 19mm. If there is no ridge on the outside of the rotor (you should have had them machined when you replaced your pads, so there should be no ridge). Try to fit a 19mm or 3/4 inch (the standard equivalent) open end wrench over the edge of the rotor. If it fits, your rotors are too thin and need to be replaced. You do not need to replace them to get rid of a brake pulse if there is still enough material to have them machined.
2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
I recently had the front rotors and pads on a 2000 Grand am SE. when I went to pump the brakes with the car off, the pedal became firm, then when I turned the car on, the pedal became spongy and unresponsive. Took it back to the mechanic a few days later, they said they would bleed the brakes, yet the pedal is still spongy, Master cylinder is fine, worked perfectly before the pads/rotors change. Could this be perhaps that they did not do a full system brake bleed?? PLEASE help, winter is coming and i want to have good brakes for the snow!! I heard maybe the brake pads just need to be worn in, if this is true, how long will it take for my brakes to go back to normal? Also wondering how much it could cost if i take it to someone to bleed the entire system and do nothing else? thanks2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?Wow, I'm seeing some really incorrect information in the answers to this question.
The brake hydraulics are separate from the brake friction materials. The hydraulics must never have any type of air introduced into their system or a spongy or poor pedal, if any at all, may result. However, the only required disturbance to the hydraulic system when replacing pads is to retract the pistons back into the caliper to allow for the thickness of the new brake pads. This does not require opening the bleeder valve or disconnecting any hydraulics at all. So, stating that the system must be bled when replacing pads is incorrect. The only reason for it to be bled is because the system was opened and may have possibly allowed air to enter. So, if the shop removed the caliper from the brake hose or opened the bleeder valve, then they should be bled. Otherwise, it is not a requirement.
Next we go to the power booster. The booster uses engine vacuum to give an easier pedal to push. If the booster is bad, or if the vacuum line to it from the engine is bad or has a problem, it will definitely not give you a spongy pedal, it will give a very stiff and hard pedal, just like you felt when you push the pedal down a couple of times with the engine off. You lose the assist, therefore resulting in a hard pedal, not a spongy pedal.
New brakes may often feel different from the ones replaced. Correctly stated by Thomas E., the new pads need to %26quot;burnish%26quot; or seat themselves to the rotors. Once this has happened, the feel of the pedal normally improves. While the new pads and rotors are mating their surfaces, you must push the brake pedal harder to achieve the same friction on the parts as you use to, and the pedal feels spongier. I do disagree that the extra 10mm gives springiness or sponginess. Pads are very hard and do not %26quot;give%26quot; or compress at all.
Another thing to look at is the adjustment of the rear drum brake shoes. Although they may not have been touched by this shop, the combination of the rear brakes being out of adjustment and the new friction parts still breaking in may be giving you the sponginess you are feeling. When the shoes are out of adjustment, the brake pedal must move further to engage the rear brake shoes based off the combination valve regulating pressure to the front brakes before the rear brakes are engaged.
I have found success on the midsize GM vehicles with 4wheel ABS by cycling the ABS pump valves and solenoids and using the proper full system bleed procedure, not just a quick bleed at the wheels. Cycling the solenoids and valves requires a scanner capable of accessing and performing these functions. The dealer and a quality repair shop will have this scanner, but expect to pay $100 or so for this complete system bleeding service due to the complexity and tools required.
I didnt want to confuse you before when talking about opening the hydraulic system when doing a brake job. Although it is not necessary or required to do this or bleed the system when done, it is highly recommended to incorporate a specific method for retracting the pistons into the calipers that requires opening the bleeder valve on the caliper as the pistons are retracted. This allows the old dirty brake fluid to exit the system instead of being forced back up the lines against any check valves or where moisture in the fluid can corrode expensive ABS components. Since you should change your brake fluid every couple years anyway, this would be any ideal time to do this. Read the article at diynetwork, it shows pictures and states my opinion eloquently.
A good mechanic may still have to go through a full inspection and various types of bleeding operations including using the scan tool to try to correct this issue. It should not be boiled down to thinking a technician is poor if it takes him more than a half hour to do this. Especially if he did the brake job by the books and is now trying to hunt down what the heck happened and why you are unsatisfied.
By the way, have you heard of ASE Certification? An ASE certified Brake Technician is tested on situations like this and would know that a bad line to the booster would give a hard pedal, not a soft pedal, and would also be tested on knowing that some vehicles may have to have their pumps cycled. Find out if your shop is using an ASE certified brake technician. Experience doesnt count if it is bad experience.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?If pads and rotors were all that was done on the front then there's no need to bleed the system, if they took calipers off then a bleed would be needed. I'd take it back to them and advise they diagnose the system correctly.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?Bring it back to the same shop since they're the ones that did the job. They may hook you up for free since you're unhappy with their service. You don't need to bleed out the entire system though, just bleed out any air that may be trapped. Most of the time, a correctly done brake job needs no bleeding at all, if only doing the rotors and pads.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?When you pump the brakes %26quot;with the car off%26quot; all the vacuum power assist is used up after about 3 pumps. that is why the pedal got hard because there is no more power assist. it is normal for new brakes to feel more flexible than worn out brakes. you have an extra 10 mm of pad material that will compress some. also the pads may not be bedded to the discs yet adding a little more springiness to the system. most disc and pad changes won't even require bleeding the brakes. if no air is introduced into the system there should be no reason to bleed the brakes. Usually (?) the mechanic should just suck some fluid out of the reservoir and then pry back the pistons which pushes fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. you don't say if it STOPS ok. if it stops ok - drive it several 100 miles and i think the pedal will start to feel firmer.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?When I replace brake pads I pop the top of the reservoir beforehand, and after the new pads are on, I bleed the brakes ALWAYS. It is indeed necessary to bleed the brakes after changing brake pads.
I think there are two possibilities. The first is that the power brake booster is bad (most likely)... that's the thing on the firewall that looks like two serving bowls put lip-to-lip, or less likely the brake system still needs bleeding.
The brake booster uses vacuum from the engine to operate. If the vacuum line to the booster is leaking or the booster developed a leak, then you will certainly notice the exact symptoms you mentioned.
ALSO DO NOT take the car back to those bozos. A REAL mechanic should be able to spot that problem in 30 seconds.ie hosted control fungical infection skin
The brake hydraulics are separate from the brake friction materials. The hydraulics must never have any type of air introduced into their system or a spongy or poor pedal, if any at all, may result. However, the only required disturbance to the hydraulic system when replacing pads is to retract the pistons back into the caliper to allow for the thickness of the new brake pads. This does not require opening the bleeder valve or disconnecting any hydraulics at all. So, stating that the system must be bled when replacing pads is incorrect. The only reason for it to be bled is because the system was opened and may have possibly allowed air to enter. So, if the shop removed the caliper from the brake hose or opened the bleeder valve, then they should be bled. Otherwise, it is not a requirement.
Next we go to the power booster. The booster uses engine vacuum to give an easier pedal to push. If the booster is bad, or if the vacuum line to it from the engine is bad or has a problem, it will definitely not give you a spongy pedal, it will give a very stiff and hard pedal, just like you felt when you push the pedal down a couple of times with the engine off. You lose the assist, therefore resulting in a hard pedal, not a spongy pedal.
New brakes may often feel different from the ones replaced. Correctly stated by Thomas E., the new pads need to %26quot;burnish%26quot; or seat themselves to the rotors. Once this has happened, the feel of the pedal normally improves. While the new pads and rotors are mating their surfaces, you must push the brake pedal harder to achieve the same friction on the parts as you use to, and the pedal feels spongier. I do disagree that the extra 10mm gives springiness or sponginess. Pads are very hard and do not %26quot;give%26quot; or compress at all.
Another thing to look at is the adjustment of the rear drum brake shoes. Although they may not have been touched by this shop, the combination of the rear brakes being out of adjustment and the new friction parts still breaking in may be giving you the sponginess you are feeling. When the shoes are out of adjustment, the brake pedal must move further to engage the rear brake shoes based off the combination valve regulating pressure to the front brakes before the rear brakes are engaged.
I have found success on the midsize GM vehicles with 4wheel ABS by cycling the ABS pump valves and solenoids and using the proper full system bleed procedure, not just a quick bleed at the wheels. Cycling the solenoids and valves requires a scanner capable of accessing and performing these functions. The dealer and a quality repair shop will have this scanner, but expect to pay $100 or so for this complete system bleeding service due to the complexity and tools required.
I didnt want to confuse you before when talking about opening the hydraulic system when doing a brake job. Although it is not necessary or required to do this or bleed the system when done, it is highly recommended to incorporate a specific method for retracting the pistons into the calipers that requires opening the bleeder valve on the caliper as the pistons are retracted. This allows the old dirty brake fluid to exit the system instead of being forced back up the lines against any check valves or where moisture in the fluid can corrode expensive ABS components. Since you should change your brake fluid every couple years anyway, this would be any ideal time to do this. Read the article at diynetwork, it shows pictures and states my opinion eloquently.
A good mechanic may still have to go through a full inspection and various types of bleeding operations including using the scan tool to try to correct this issue. It should not be boiled down to thinking a technician is poor if it takes him more than a half hour to do this. Especially if he did the brake job by the books and is now trying to hunt down what the heck happened and why you are unsatisfied.
By the way, have you heard of ASE Certification? An ASE certified Brake Technician is tested on situations like this and would know that a bad line to the booster would give a hard pedal, not a soft pedal, and would also be tested on knowing that some vehicles may have to have their pumps cycled. Find out if your shop is using an ASE certified brake technician. Experience doesnt count if it is bad experience.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?If pads and rotors were all that was done on the front then there's no need to bleed the system, if they took calipers off then a bleed would be needed. I'd take it back to them and advise they diagnose the system correctly.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?Bring it back to the same shop since they're the ones that did the job. They may hook you up for free since you're unhappy with their service. You don't need to bleed out the entire system though, just bleed out any air that may be trapped. Most of the time, a correctly done brake job needs no bleeding at all, if only doing the rotors and pads.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?When you pump the brakes %26quot;with the car off%26quot; all the vacuum power assist is used up after about 3 pumps. that is why the pedal got hard because there is no more power assist. it is normal for new brakes to feel more flexible than worn out brakes. you have an extra 10 mm of pad material that will compress some. also the pads may not be bedded to the discs yet adding a little more springiness to the system. most disc and pad changes won't even require bleeding the brakes. if no air is introduced into the system there should be no reason to bleed the brakes. Usually (?) the mechanic should just suck some fluid out of the reservoir and then pry back the pistons which pushes fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. you don't say if it STOPS ok. if it stops ok - drive it several 100 miles and i think the pedal will start to feel firmer.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?When I replace brake pads I pop the top of the reservoir beforehand, and after the new pads are on, I bleed the brakes ALWAYS. It is indeed necessary to bleed the brakes after changing brake pads.
I think there are two possibilities. The first is that the power brake booster is bad (most likely)... that's the thing on the firewall that looks like two serving bowls put lip-to-lip, or less likely the brake system still needs bleeding.
The brake booster uses vacuum from the engine to operate. If the vacuum line to the booster is leaking or the booster developed a leak, then you will certainly notice the exact symptoms you mentioned.
ALSO DO NOT take the car back to those bozos. A REAL mechanic should be able to spot that problem in 30 seconds.
Corolla spongy brakes?
i just changed the front disc brake pads and rotors on my 2000 corolla and the mechanic said the rear drums still have 45% left on them so i didn't have the rear changed. I'm not exactly sure if this problem was present before the brake change or not but i noticed that my brake is really spongy and i have to press it about 90% down to get a good brake response and after 90% it is really stiff and makes it hard for me to judge how hard i am braking before locking the wheels. This is important cause my car lacks ABS. I have heard that changing the brake fluid and bleeding the lines helps my brakes be more sharper and less spongy but my receipt from the brake job indicates that they did change the brake fluid and did bleed the lines!? so im wondering whether i should take it to toyota instead and ask them to bleed the line and change the brake fluid or just to ask them to inspect the brakes? i know there is a 80$ diagnostic charge if no problem is found and im wondering whether i should risk it?Corolla spongy brakes?just drive it it will get betterCorolla spongy brakes?whoever changed your brake pads and rotors must have not followed the proper procedure to bleed brakes. OR did it half assed. i suggest taking it back to them, and telling them politely to do it again, or have a technician try and press the brakes and see what he thinks about it. if its obvious to you , it should be obvious to him. if u took it to a good shop, theyll re do it for you at no cost.Corolla spongy brakes?you may have air in your brakes system,noot a big deal just bleed the brakes,did you remove a caliper when you did the change,it could also just e the brakes you got,did you go cheap?cause you get what you pay for,
1994-95 Dodge Avenger. Front right wheel woobles more the longer I drive and the hub cap gets dangerously hot.
Here is what its what has already been replaced on the front end within the last 4 months...so what its 'not' (keeping in mind that the problem is in the front right tire):
-got 3 out of 4 brand new tires (one old in back)
-brand new front ball-joints
-new front rotors and break pads
Info that could be helpful in determining the problem:
-After getting new tires, never got an alignment.
-My back break are really bad and need to be changed
-*******When I got an Oil change 2 weeks ago (I have had the problem for a month or two), and had said NOTHING to them about my issue....they returned my car and told me the front right tire was very dangerous to drive on cause it has low tread (one of the BRAND NEW TIRES bought less than 5 months ago)
I was told (with just the info provided...have not had anybody look at it yet) that this could possibly be wheel bearings or break calibur.
Does anybody know if this sounds right? Or any other idea's that it may be? And if it is wheel bearings (which I think it is on the little info I know from reasearching the issue on the internet) how much that is to fix (not including labor...a family friend would be doing it for me)
ANY INFO WILL BE HELPFUL! thanks!
1994-95 Dodge Avenger. Front right wheel woobles more the longer I drive and the hub cap gets dangerously hot.that would either be a wheel bearing or a caliper sticking on it for it to produce a large amount of heat like that,you can easily jack it up and see if the wheel will turn freely or not,look at the rotor on that side if its got blueish look to it this means its been ran hot and that would be a bad caliper causing the brakes to grab,and that will create the heat from it, a bad axle will also cause one to wobble but not over heat, a wheel bearing usually cost around 200 bucks to have replaced,that's parts and labor,but make sure what ever you do to it is going to fix the problem,replacing parts can get really expensive ,especially if it doesn't repair the problem,good luck.1994-95 Dodge Avenger. Front right wheel woobles more the longer I drive and the hub cap gets dangerously hot.your welcome.
-got 3 out of 4 brand new tires (one old in back)
-brand new front ball-joints
-new front rotors and break pads
Info that could be helpful in determining the problem:
-After getting new tires, never got an alignment.
-My back break are really bad and need to be changed
-*******When I got an Oil change 2 weeks ago (I have had the problem for a month or two), and had said NOTHING to them about my issue....they returned my car and told me the front right tire was very dangerous to drive on cause it has low tread (one of the BRAND NEW TIRES bought less than 5 months ago)
I was told (with just the info provided...have not had anybody look at it yet) that this could possibly be wheel bearings or break calibur.
Does anybody know if this sounds right? Or any other idea's that it may be? And if it is wheel bearings (which I think it is on the little info I know from reasearching the issue on the internet) how much that is to fix (not including labor...a family friend would be doing it for me)
ANY INFO WILL BE HELPFUL! thanks!
1994-95 Dodge Avenger. Front right wheel woobles more the longer I drive and the hub cap gets dangerously hot.that would either be a wheel bearing or a caliper sticking on it for it to produce a large amount of heat like that,you can easily jack it up and see if the wheel will turn freely or not,look at the rotor on that side if its got blueish look to it this means its been ran hot and that would be a bad caliper causing the brakes to grab,and that will create the heat from it, a bad axle will also cause one to wobble but not over heat, a wheel bearing usually cost around 200 bucks to have replaced,that's parts and labor,but make sure what ever you do to it is going to fix the problem,replacing parts can get really expensive ,especially if it doesn't repair the problem,good luck.1994-95 Dodge Avenger. Front right wheel woobles more the longer I drive and the hub cap gets dangerously hot.your welcome.
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1994-95 Dodge Avenger. Front right wheel woobles more the longer I drive and the hub cap gets dangerously hot.Sounds like wheel bearings. Jack it up and give the wheel a shake to see if it seems %26quot;wobbly.%26quot; IMight want to check the other side, too. No sense ruining another tire.1994-95 Dodge Avenger. Front right wheel woobles more the longer I drive and the hub cap gets dangerously hot.Wheel bearings are probably bad. A simple-cheap fix if you can do it yourself or know a backyard mechanic who can do it for you. 1994-95 Dodge Avenger. Front right wheel woobles more the longer I drive and the hub cap gets dangerously hot.Sounds like wheel bearings;-{ but alignment is needed after ball joints.1994-95 Dodge Avenger. Front right wheel woobles more the longer I drive and the hub cap gets dangerously hot.get your bearings checked. they sound like they are going out/gone out and should be replaced.
Front of my car Shaking?
I have a 97 chrysler lhs and the front start shaking on me a few weeks ago and i was told it was a warped rotor...I changed the brakes and the rotor and the front is still shaking MOSTLY DURING STOPING..to describe how its like it feels like the wheel is not on tight....i took the car to my local tire place and used the air gun to make sure the tire was on tight . the rotors are on good and the caliber bolts are in sucure..WHAT IS CAUSING THE RATTLING AND SHAKING....thanks in advanceFront of my car Shaking?did you replace both front rotors ? possible tie rod is loose or ? ask at the tire shop when the car is on the lift to see anything visibly wrong
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