It's really annoying. I put in new brake pads, but I didn't change the sensors and I'm not going to because they are stupid expensive for a feature thats pretty unneeded. Is there any way to keep this light off for good? It comes on every time I turn on the car and I have to hit the arrow up to turn it to something else.
Also, are those sensors the possible reason for the annoying chirp I hear while driving? It sounds like its coming from the wheel in the front but the rotors are new, brake pads are new and everything is in sound shape yet it makes the most annoying chirp ever. Could this be because the car thinks it needs new brake pads so its telling me to change by chirp and by stupid light on the dash?How do you get the change brake pads light to go away on a 1999 Cadillac Seville STS?put a piece of black electrical tape over the light or buy the sensors. The chirp could be a number of things.
Ghetto fag? lmao. You're the idiot complaining about the light and you know you need the sensors replaced...which will fix the light..but of course you want a way around it....No not ghetto but u sound like a fag!How do you get the change brake pads light to go away on a 1999 Cadillac Seville STS?yes it all could be because of bad sensor you might want to find out which fuse controls the light and maybe pull the light good luckHow do you get the change brake pads light to go away on a 1999 Cadillac Seville STS?pull the fuse, or just cut the wire, ya dont need it anyways, you can pretty much tell when u need new brake padsHow do you get the change brake pads light to go away on a 1999 Cadillac Seville STS?it also could be a wheel bearing too.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Does anyone know how the front end in a bmw works or what?
I have a shake in my 93-318i i have had the car aligned, balanced, rotated all wheels are fine, the lower control arm bushings were changed. could something be wrong with my brakes aside from my new rotors they are also fine? driveshaft bent? this problem has got me goin off the deep end, i need help!! Do lower control arm bushings have to be put in a certain way, could they have snapped instantly if put in wrong? please call me if your an experienced tech, luke 603-642-8124Does anyone know how the front end in a bmw works or what?Yeah - loose ball joints, tie rods, worn rack %26amp; pinion steering gears. The wheels probably feel loose when you grab the front wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and shake it back and forth. But, if you jack the car up and grab it at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and you can shake it, I think it's probably front wheel bearings. The only other thing I can think of is toe-in adjustment or I don't know if your may have a steering damper.Does anyone know how the front end in a bmw works or what?Did you check tie rod ends or ball joints?Does anyone know how the front end in a bmw works or what?Upper control arms are the more likely culprit, they take more load than the lowers under typical driving and braking loads. Change the whole arm, the ball joint on the other end is not serviceable.
How do you bleed the brakes in a 1977 Motorhome / RV?
I have a 1977 GMC MIDAS motor-home, and I am having a hard time with the brakes. It has 4 disc brakes. I changed the front pads, and calipers on both sides. I tried bleeding the lines but the pedal is still really soft. I have to push the pedal all the way down until I feel brakes, and that's with new pads and calipers. The rotors do not looked warped. I read something about turning the wheel to both locks to engage the pump or something? I tried everything, I think it may have a brake power boost system. I did add brake fluid to the master cylinder because it went down after the bleeding process, which I hope was what I was supposed to add. Anyone have any ideas, or somewhere that the proper bleeding process is described for this vehicle?How do you bleed the brakes in a 1977 Motorhome / RV?it still has air in the system
get a friend help you out
have him pump the break five times or more and tell him not to release and let his food press down on the break.
loosen the bleed valve on the caliper a quarter turn and tighten it once the fluids come out
repeat the process like three times or until no more bubbles come out of the bleed valve. do it in all four wheels,,
,*****watch out for the fluid level on the reservoir if it runs out while your still bleeding the system you're gonna have to start all over again*****
hope it helps
good luck
get a friend help you out
have him pump the break five times or more and tell him not to release and let his food press down on the break.
loosen the bleed valve on the caliper a quarter turn and tighten it once the fluids come out
repeat the process like three times or until no more bubbles come out of the bleed valve. do it in all four wheels,,
,*****watch out for the fluid level on the reservoir if it runs out while your still bleeding the system you're gonna have to start all over again*****
hope it helps
good luck
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?Your fan has a temeparature sensor..which may be damaged. anyway just look for the cables that come out from the fan..and unplug it.My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?about the blower motor, maybe the relay is stuck, which would cause it to run all the time, until you find the problem, unhook the battery at night, and about the rotors, it sounds like the calipers arent releasing the pads away from the rotors, and burning the pads and warping the rotors.
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?Your fan has a temeparature sensor..which may be damaged. anyway just look for the cables that come out from the fan..and unplug it.My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?about the blower motor, maybe the relay is stuck, which would cause it to run all the time, until you find the problem, unhook the battery at night, and about the rotors, it sounds like the calipers arent releasing the pads away from the rotors, and burning the pads and warping the rotors.
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?Im not familiar with BMW's but with climate controlled vehicles,i do know that the blower is controlled by a blower control module and the blower gets its ground thru the module.
If the blower continues to run with the key off,the problem lies internally in the blower module and it needs to be replaced.
look into that and see if your vehicle has that setup
As far as the rotors,cheaper aftermarket ones will do that.
ALSO%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;if the lug nuts are improperly/overtorqued when put back on,this will definitely warp rotors within 5-7 thousand miles or less.
A torque wrench or special torque sticks are required to tighten them properly.
If just an impact wrench is used ,they can be easily overtorqued.connecting database textbox
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?Im not familiar with BMW's but with climate controlled vehicles,i do know that the blower is controlled by a blower control module and the blower gets its ground thru the module.
If the blower continues to run with the key off,the problem lies internally in the blower module and it needs to be replaced.
look into that and see if your vehicle has that setup
As far as the rotors,cheaper aftermarket ones will do that.
ALSO%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;if the lug nuts are improperly/overtorqued when put back on,this will definitely warp rotors within 5-7 thousand miles or less.
A torque wrench or special torque sticks are required to tighten them properly.
If just an impact wrench is used ,they can be easily overtorqued.
Ford fiesta mk3 n reg?
trying to change the front wheel bearing. got the brake disc and caliper off and am now stuck.cant get into bearing, seems to be a rotor thing in the way , how do u get this off, tried hitting it with hammer but no luck. any ideasFord fiesta mk3 n reg?I'd seriously consider getting a garage to do it because you sound like you don't have a clue and i wouldn't want the wheel to fall off and kill you or someone else.
To do it properly you need to undo the driveshaft nut, the bottom balljoint ect and completely remove the whole hub assembly to work on it at a bench.
To do it properly you need to undo the driveshaft nut, the bottom balljoint ect and completely remove the whole hub assembly to work on it at a bench.
What is wrong with my breaks?
I'll make this as short as I can.
I'm driving an 88 suzuki forsa turbo. Since buying my car I've always needed to push my break pedal just slightly past half way down to get any response from my breaks, the previous owner said this is how it has always been and he bought it brand new. One day while trying to break I had pushed the pedal clear to the floor and it was as though I had hardly touched the pedal at all, my tires didn't even lock up. I brought my car in and had the master cylinder replaced with a rebuilt one. A day or two after this happened my break pedal was doing the reverse and instead of going to the floor I was unable to push it down very far. The more I needed to drive the higher and higher it got and the less I could push the pedal. This started to happen after about 30 min of driving and just getting off the highway on my way to work. Not only was my pedal distance changing but it felt like at least one of the breaks had seized and I could smell the break pad rubbing. When I finally arrived at work and looked I saw that not only had my front passenger side caliper seize on me but my rotor was red hot...YAY!!! I brought it back and the mechanic determined that break lines were shot and not allowing the fluid to leave the calipers, so they were replaced. I also decided to change my front pads and calipers myself at this time. This all started about 2 weeks ago till this sunday which is when I changed the calipers and pads. I've just been making short drives with it this week to make sure things were fine and everything felt good. Today I took it to work and once again by the time I got to work I had to hardly touch my pedal to get any response from my breaks. The nice thing was it didn't feel like anything had seized and I couldn't smell burning pad. I took it back to the mechanic and he just adjusted the set pin in the master lower, which effectively did nothing.
So to recap: master cylinder replaced with a rebuilt one, brand new break lines, brand new calipers and brand new pads. I've also been checking almost every time i get into my car and the break fluid remains at the same level and there are no leaks that I can find. Also as far as I can tell my rear breaks have always worked just fine but now I'm thinking I should take everything apart and check it out.
Please help!!!!!!!!!!What is wrong with my breaks?you have air in your brakes lines you need to bleed you need to bleed the whole systemWhat is wrong with my breaks?I would say you have breaked your brakes. There is something you have not checked yet. Rip out everything associated with the breaked brakes and replace it all with new, not rebuilt, not made in China. Maybe the linkage is frickacted.What is wrong with my breaks?maybe its something weird, look what the guys had on his brake :
http://ihatejade.com/index.php?c=viral%26amp;m=index%26amp;id=6ab7fa37297a35abc37cf65c9aa350adWhat is wrong with my breaks?I think you are just not used to having brakes that actually work. If they are not overheating, and the pedal is not going past 1/2 way before the brakes start to grab, I would not be overly concerned. I think you might have had a bit of air in the lines and during your drive to work, the air worked itself up to the master cylinder and your brakes started grabbing normally.
Just keep an eye on your rims for excessive dust, keep your nose out for burning smells, and keep an eye on your fluid level.
Also, if you have drum brakes in the rear, you could try backing off the adjuster a bit, they might be over adjusted a bit and grabbing.What is wrong with my breaks?your mechanic must be an idiot ive worked on brakes alot but would have to see to see whats wrong. does it have antilock breaks those ive never worked on but theres not much else to do u changed it allWhat is wrong with my breaks?Your brakes usually feel a little spongy when calipers are replaced, because the pistons in the calipers retract more when new, after a short period, they will be seated and retract just a little to release the pressure on the pads, and the brake pedal doesn't have to travel as far to push the pads against the rotor.
Unless you notice other problems, it should be ok.What is wrong with my breaks?Breaks or Brakes or are you brakes brokes or did they break?
I'm driving an 88 suzuki forsa turbo. Since buying my car I've always needed to push my break pedal just slightly past half way down to get any response from my breaks, the previous owner said this is how it has always been and he bought it brand new. One day while trying to break I had pushed the pedal clear to the floor and it was as though I had hardly touched the pedal at all, my tires didn't even lock up. I brought my car in and had the master cylinder replaced with a rebuilt one. A day or two after this happened my break pedal was doing the reverse and instead of going to the floor I was unable to push it down very far. The more I needed to drive the higher and higher it got and the less I could push the pedal. This started to happen after about 30 min of driving and just getting off the highway on my way to work. Not only was my pedal distance changing but it felt like at least one of the breaks had seized and I could smell the break pad rubbing. When I finally arrived at work and looked I saw that not only had my front passenger side caliper seize on me but my rotor was red hot...YAY!!! I brought it back and the mechanic determined that break lines were shot and not allowing the fluid to leave the calipers, so they were replaced. I also decided to change my front pads and calipers myself at this time. This all started about 2 weeks ago till this sunday which is when I changed the calipers and pads. I've just been making short drives with it this week to make sure things were fine and everything felt good. Today I took it to work and once again by the time I got to work I had to hardly touch my pedal to get any response from my breaks. The nice thing was it didn't feel like anything had seized and I couldn't smell burning pad. I took it back to the mechanic and he just adjusted the set pin in the master lower, which effectively did nothing.
So to recap: master cylinder replaced with a rebuilt one, brand new break lines, brand new calipers and brand new pads. I've also been checking almost every time i get into my car and the break fluid remains at the same level and there are no leaks that I can find. Also as far as I can tell my rear breaks have always worked just fine but now I'm thinking I should take everything apart and check it out.
Please help!!!!!!!!!!What is wrong with my breaks?you have air in your brakes lines you need to bleed you need to bleed the whole systemWhat is wrong with my breaks?I would say you have breaked your brakes. There is something you have not checked yet. Rip out everything associated with the breaked brakes and replace it all with new, not rebuilt, not made in China. Maybe the linkage is frickacted.What is wrong with my breaks?maybe its something weird, look what the guys had on his brake :
http://ihatejade.com/index.php?c=viral%26amp;m=index%26amp;id=6ab7fa37297a35abc37cf65c9aa350adWhat is wrong with my breaks?I think you are just not used to having brakes that actually work. If they are not overheating, and the pedal is not going past 1/2 way before the brakes start to grab, I would not be overly concerned. I think you might have had a bit of air in the lines and during your drive to work, the air worked itself up to the master cylinder and your brakes started grabbing normally.
Just keep an eye on your rims for excessive dust, keep your nose out for burning smells, and keep an eye on your fluid level.
Also, if you have drum brakes in the rear, you could try backing off the adjuster a bit, they might be over adjusted a bit and grabbing.What is wrong with my breaks?your mechanic must be an idiot ive worked on brakes alot but would have to see to see whats wrong. does it have antilock breaks those ive never worked on but theres not much else to do u changed it allWhat is wrong with my breaks?Your brakes usually feel a little spongy when calipers are replaced, because the pistons in the calipers retract more when new, after a short period, they will be seated and retract just a little to release the pressure on the pads, and the brake pedal doesn't have to travel as far to push the pads against the rotor.
Unless you notice other problems, it should be ok.What is wrong with my breaks?Breaks or Brakes or are you brakes brokes or did they break?
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